Article 54030 of comp.sys.cbm:
From: kh6zv9@victoria.pe.net (bob masse)
Newsgroups: comp.sys.cbm
Subject: Re: 64K VDC Upgrade QUESTION
Date: 15 May 1996 18:39:27 -0700
Organization: PE.net - Internet access from the Press-Enterprise Company
Lines: 150
Message-ID: <4ne10f$9m8@victoria.pe.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: victoria.pe.net
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Scott Dutton (dutton@freenet.calgary.ab.ca) wrote:

: Hi folks -

: I know I need 2 4464 Mem IC's. Is there a specific version of this chip
: needed?

: From there we'll need a step-by-step. I hope one of you fine upstanding
: people can help.

: - Scott Dutton



Here you go scott...


----------------------------Text import--------------------
 
    Installation Instruction   [For C-128 Video Upgrade]
[1]   Allow  ample  work  area.  Spread  out  a  towel or two to avoid
      scratching C-128 case, and help catch loose screws.
 
[2]  You  will be dealing with extremely sensitive IC's.  Please follow
     usual precautions to avoid static charges.
 
[3]  Turn over computer (with front facing you), Remove six (6)
      screws,   1  at  each  back  corner,  1 in the center, and
3 across front.  (Older models have phillips-head machine
screws, here use medium size p hillips  screw  driver  #1.)
Newer  models will have hex-shaped insert s crews.   Here  use  a
5/64 hex key (alan wrench).  Now turn computer right side up.
 
[4]  The top and bottom halves of the computer are now held toge ther
by  two  interlocking  plastic tabs.  The two tabs protruding
down f rom the top  have  "teeth"  pointing outward,  that
interlock with the b ottom. These  tabs  are  located at a
point between the top row of numb er keys and  the  single  row
of  function keys at both sides of the ke yboard Press the top
IN at this spot, from the base and towards center) ,  as  you
lift  the top up. You may also try to pull the base OUT  at the
same point. Once one side is free, the other will follow easily.
 
 
[5]  (a) Note orientation of LIP part of pilot light LED plug, a
attached  to left side of circuit board, (It points out.)  Pull
apart mini  plug.  (b)   The  keyboard  is attached  to
the  circuit  board with a  multi-wire mini plug.  Pull apart
plug, and NOTE orientation.  (There  is  a  brown  wire closer
to power switch....but check o ut unit being  worked  on for
variation.) When seperating this plug, note that  the  two
plastic parts me rge completely together.  The "stilts" coming
out of the circuit board are  NOT what it is pluged into.  They
are part  of the bottom half of the plug. (c)  Remove  the
heavy  braid ground wire which also attaches the
keyboard to the circuit board with a hex key or phillips head.
 
[6]  Free the RF shield from the board.  At left rear-center is
a large  phillips  head  screw.   Remove it. Counting this
screw, the shield is attached  to  the  board  by  7 hex
screws.  Remove all 7.  Holding the shield  to the base are
also twisted tabs, at 4 places along the  front, and  left
edge.   GENTLY  turn  tabs straight with needle-nose pliers
WATCH  direction  tabs  are twisted,some go one way, others the other.
Finally,  just above the keyboard mini-plug on the right side by
a tab,  the  RF  shield  is  soldered to the board. Unsolder at
this poi nt, and then RF shield can be removed.
[7]  On  the  main board is a small metal box, at left-center,
actually  the  only  one there.  The two chipsto be replaced are
located inside. Gently  pull  up  and remove the lid. The chip
locations are marked on the circuit board as U23 and U25.
 
 
[8]  Seperate the circuit board from the bottom RF shield, by
carerefully  twisting  the tabs holding it to the board.  Leave
the bottom RF  shield  in  the  bottom  plastic  case,  and lift
out the circuit board,  with a "left  pull  and  up" angle, so
that plugs inside plastic base s lip out before lifting up.
 
[9]   Remove chips U23 and U25, by either a clip and unsolder or
 simple  unsolder  method.   The  old chip pins may be bent on
the bottom , if so straighten  before  pulling out. EXAMINE
carefully for damage!!  If any see  below  before  proceeding!!
Insert IC sockets, bending bott om pins for  a  tight fit, and
solder in place.  Plug in the two #4464's  noting  that  the
"dimple" on the #4464's line up with the "dimple" out line on
the circuit board.
 
[10]  Reassemble casing, carefully reversing each step.
 
 
        Ooooops!!
        ---------
There  are  three  common  goofs,  which should be avoided, but if they
occur, here are the patches:
 
[1]   Solder  "ran" and now two pin connections are crossed. Okey,
this is  easy,  just unsolder the connection, carefully seeing
that no other  pin connections are crossed.
 
[2]   In  unsoldering  the old chip,the pin connection got burned out.
Okey, this is a bit more tricky.  You have to examine the circuit
board both the top and bottom sides, and trace the connection
from the  burned out  pin hole to where it goes.  [If you have
a schematic, by all means  use this.] Then, after inserting the
IC socket, use a "magic mar ker" on  the  bottom of the board to
mark the burned out pin, and its con necting point.  Remember
when  working  on the board bottom, its locations are
reversed,  so double check that youare tracing connections correctly!!
Take  a  loop  of  light  weight wire, allow for a loop longer t han
the distance  to  be connected, and solder the wire to the two
points.  Use electric  tape  to  isolate the two solder
connections from any near by pins, at both ends of the wire.
Then flatten this wire to the bo ttom of the  board, going
around the "pin hills". And finally take sever al long pieces
of  electrical  tape,  maybe 4 or 5 inches long, and secure the
wire to the bottom, so that it is flat against the board.
 
[3]  In  removing the old chip, partof the circuit board tracing  tore.
Well,  this is pretty much like goof #2 above.  Make sure that t
here is  no  loose  tracings  to cause a short.  Trace out the
connection , go to the  bottom  of  the  board,  and solder in
a wire splice connection as described in #2.
 
        Addendum  (March 1993)
        ----------------------
 
This was written before a 64k VDC plug-in board was made availab le
thru Software  Support  Int'l.   The board  is the easier,
faster, an d most importantly, safer way to upgrade.
Unless  you  are  comfortable  with electronics and soldering in  close
quarters this project should not be undertaken.  Under no
circumstances should  this  be  a  "first" soldering  project.  It is
only for  those experienced with electronic projects.
 
oh!  Just a reminder.  This upgrade is required only for those with
old style flat C128's.  All C128D's have this upgrade
pre-installed.
 
        _____________
        Written by...
        Howard Herman
        03/11/93
        -------------
 
---------------------------------text end-------------------------------
 
Bob
kh6zv9@pe.net
